Arcadia Discussion Zone

I as at Montsegur recently, and wanted to share some images of my visit. It was the fourth time I'd been to the top, and the most rewarding, thanks to some variable overhead conditions.

I almost didn't go up there this time. The weather in the Aude was spectacular last week, very warm, with barely a cloud to be seen in the deep blue sky, but when I crossed into the more mountainous terrain of the Ariege, heading north, in the direction of Foix, the overhead conditions became very murky, and the roads were slick with the mist that was pouring down the thickly wooded slopes all around.

When I parked beneath the massive pog upon which the castle stands, only the bottom half was visible through the grey cloud, and it all looked very unpromising, but I thought I'd at least go as far up as the Cathar monument, at the top of the Meadow of the Burned, the last field before you get into the woods that cloak the main ascent up the mountain.



Sensing that the weather might be about to lift, I decided to continue to the top anyway. It's never quite as hard a climb as you remember it, but still quite a slog. This is from about halfway up, looking down on the village of Montsegur; by this point I was walking through the cloud, and everything was still very grey.



I detoured on the way up to visit the memorial to the poet Maurice Magre.



A brief bit on Magre, and his association with Occitanian culture.

http://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Maurice_Magre

With very fortuitous timing, as I approached the top the skies cleared, and the clouds were pushed away from the castle walls, to vivid effect.



Everything was now bathed in sunlight, and the temperature seemed to rocket up by about twenty degrees.



Even more beguilingly, clouds were now washing through the valley far beneath me.



I explored one of the little paths that runs across the summit, and found a good spot from which to look up at the castle ...



... and for looking across the valley, which had never appeared more beautiful.



When I got back down to the bottom, this ubiquitous view of Montsegur was clearly visible, and I was really glad I'd gone up there, as this is a wonderful place to visit, truly a castle in the sky, and well worth the effort of the climb.

Thanks, Richard! Fantastic progression of shots!

Richard, is it from this view that the main trail goes up?---Bill

Hi Bill - Yes, it is. The little figure you can see in the bottom left of the picture is standing by the Cathar memorial at the top of the Meadow of the Burned; from there you'd go on to the left a few paces, and then the path goes up into the woods (there's a hut a short way up where you buy your ticket to go to the castle), to emerge roughly midway along the top of the treeline, and then zig-zag up to the top.

Thanks for that Richard, and thanks also for the tour. Did you have a moment when you arrived at the "meadow of the burned". I have visited such places as the "little bighorn battlefield", and standing where brave men died always seems to be a moment, if you know what I mean. I should mention though before it comes up, at the little bighorn, brave men died on both sides, IMHO.

Not to go too far afield, but you reminded me of some things I have read about the historian Arnold Toynbee, who had a number of "experiences" while in historic settings:

http://www.realitytest.com/time02.htm

That is certainly interesting Caelum, but what I had meant by a moment was sort of like a tear in the eye or something.---Bill

You can't help but feel something, when you visit a place like that, whether a battlefield or, as in this case, a place where there was a mass execution. In fact, when I was there last time, someone had built a funeral pyre in that field, near to the Cathar memorial, for what purpose I'm not sure, but I think it probably just stands there, unlit, as a reminder of the terrible event that took place there, many centuries ago.

I find ancient places very atmospheric, particularly castles, even when the original structure has been replaced with something else, as at Montsegur, or when the remains of the castle are just mere vestiges, as at Chateau d'Albedun, at le Bezu, near RLC. Montsegur is also highly atmospheric on account of its placement at the top of a pinnacle of rock, and the natural splendour of the surroundings.

I like the link on Arnold Toynbee that Caelum posted, which includes this quote from the historian:

beautiful pictures and wonderful quote thanks Caelum and Richard

the clouds give it a mystical feel

Wonderful photos, thanks so much.
A friend and I made the climb in March 2000 and ran into the 'brume'--misty-fog also.
Except in our case it was so thick we saw a widening in the road with a place to park and what appeared to be a path leading up with people already on the trail.
My friend made the comment: Where are the cars? So we drove further down the road and found the actual parking area and access.
We stumbled (the dampness made the ground slippery) up to the hut...then up the trail. I wasn't physically fit but felt driven (actually pulled was more like it) to climb all the way.
I hadn't seen photos of the place (we were staying nearby by chance) so had no idea how far the climb was.
The brume continued until we were at the top and had explored most of the chateau. There had been two other people but they left, so we were alone--were I to go back, I would want to find a time when I could be alone there again.
Finally, the fog lifted and we saw how far we'd climbed---and realized what we had thought were a group of hikers on the hill across the way (other side of the road) was actually a herd of cattle. Well, I suppose some of the groups that come to climb might well be cattle...
My friend (very fit) rambled around and found some of the old stones used by the catapults, and if you really look at the chateau walls, and then at the surrounding areas, you'd come to the decision that we did: The old chateau may have been torn down but the stones were reused to build the newer version.
You don't throw good building stones away (the house I've rented in Mirepoix is built with some of the stones from the old city wall), and given privacy, time and an empathic approach I think you'll find some of the stones used in the old chateau. I would not be suprised if the walls had not been torn down but the foundation left, and reused. It has that feel.
I was the last person to leave Peyrepertuse one late afternoon and the sense of the place changed as it emptied. My friend and I were going to go to Puilaurens but there were so many people there and all chattering as if it were a theme park--we didn't waste our time.

On another note, I see that there is semi-new management at what used to be 'Chez Costes'..it is now named (unfortunately, many locals feel) Auberge de Montsegur. And for those who may have good memories of the somewhat haphazard way things were arranged and the old but comfortable decor...well, there are now posters of PreRaphael Brotherhood knights and fair maidens on the walls...and said walls are quite changed...
you can have your own preview http://aubergemontsegur.com/restaurant.htm.
I'm sure it will prove popular with many people, but the chef is the same one that lost Costes listing in the Guide Routard (after having been listed there for many, many years).
The rooms look more comfortable, are still quite affordable (I used to rent a gite in the village so the rooms weren't important to me) but...on va voir.

They have been filming the Labyrinth (Kate Mosse's book) in and around the area, and Philip Coppens [and others] are going to be having a Writers Grail workshop Chez Costes (yes, I AM going be difficult about the name change) the week of the Montsegur commemoration (17 March)...good for tourism I suppose....

Should anyone decide to visit Montsegur (pog and chateau) and decide to visit the village (the ticket for the chateau visit is also good for the library and small museum) there are a couple other places to eat.
Interestingly, the website does not provide links...here's one for the offical one:
http://www.montsegur.fr/ but its links aren't up to date. Better site is http://www.montsegur.org/

Really ? I hadn't heard about that. It's a really good yarn (as is Sepulchre) so looking forward to seeing it on the big screen.

Seems like it's a tv drama and Ridley Scott is the director: http://blog.katemosse.com/2011/10/labyr ... apter.html

If you liked those two books, and I did very much, you would probably also like "The Cave" which is a novella basically.

I'll definitely read that, thanks.

I really liked this one, "Winter Ghosts", a ghost story set in Languedoc in winter, very atmospheric.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Winter-Ghosts-K ... 27&sr=8-10

I think "Labyrinth" might actually work better as a TV series than a movie, given the length of it, and the timeslip structure. If Ridley Scott's involved it'll look amazing, at the very least.

I see she's written another one, which looks promising, called "The Citadel", and set in WWII, in Languedoc again. But unfortunately not to be released until September 2012 (post mini-series presumably!).

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Citadel-Kate-Mo ... 615&sr=8-4

Thanks, I actually really enjoyed reading that menu. Looks good on paper at any rate, some good wines as well. I've only been there once, not this trip, just for a drink, outside. I remember a very big and friendly dog. I would think about staying there, another time, because I'd like to explore more of the countryside around the pog itself. I like the drive there from Puivert, the way the terrain becomes wilder.

"Brume" is a good word for misty fog.

The menu was of interest to me as well. A question for all you francophiles......what is French for "Afternoon Tea"? (See the first part of the menu).

Och..."Afternoon tea" only exists in the mind's of the English and doesn't exist in France..... and since the French people are sensible and have their main meal at midday there is no room by the clock or in the stomach to cram in a "cream tea" before l'heure d'apéro

Probably one of those odd French anglicisms - like "le parking", "le camping", "le weekend", etc.

I hadn't heard of "Winter Ghosts" before, but in looking at it, it appears to be an expanded version of "The Cave" (which is only 97 small pages), so I would say don't bother and if someone hadn't read either, they should read "Winter Ghosts".

Oh, bugger! I just ordered "The Cave" this afternoon. Thought they sounded a bit similar.

Oh well, that's one Christmas present bought.

Thankyou, although for me a substantial lunch can lead to significant post prandial somnolescence.
Google translate comically renders your french as "the time aperture".
But I get the drift.

My apologies, Richard! By way of recommendation, it would be a perfect short read for a younger person - sort of a good eerie tale without being a long read.

Hence the Spanish tradition of siesta.

Arguably, although my medical defence organisation would be unlikely to support me should I adopt that Iberian tradition.

The reason there is an afternoon tea is a woman bought into the business and she's from England, Heidi Kay. I think they're trying to appeal to the English/Britons and while there is a tea room in Mirepoix (half an hour from Montsegur) I think the idea is to offer a bit of everything.
No more Pyrenees dogs in the restaurant. The one that was there was banned (some guest decided the dog was not sanitary around food and perhaps a problem with a child who thought they could ride the dog like a pony). I loved the dog and he was sort of like the best possible maitre d'---coming by to see if everything is good, a little socializing, make you feel welcome, then on to another table. But then, I prefer a good dog to a lot of people...in restaurants or elsewhere.