Arcadia Discussion Zone

Hi all,

I'm off to Rennes le Chateau for a week for the first time in late July, and i was wondering if anyone had any hints or tips for a first time visitor? I'll be staying in Rennes les Bains so pretty much near to everything, and i wondered if anyone had any suggestions for places to visit, decent restaurants, things to avoid etc...

I'll be visiting the usual places on the grail trail, but if anyone knows of anywhere else they think is worth a visit i'd love to hear from you. I'm a bit of an artist on the side so anywhere secluded, beautiful, and a bit mysterious would be fab. Any recommendations?

Any info much appreciated, thanks guys (and gals!)

I'm there from the 9th June for 10 days - first time. I'll let you know how we get on

Hi, and welcome to the Forum,

These are some places I enjoy going to. They're not necessarily all "mystery" related, but in such a beautiful region, who cares anyway? I certainly think they'd all have potential as places to paint. Anyway, these are some personal favourites in the immediate vicinity of RLC/RLB.

Van Buren Tower, South of RLC
This is the restored tower, once a windmill, in a field south of the village. Very easy to get to. Just walk down the hill until you get to another old windmill, this one a ruin, partly screened by Cypress trees, where the road does a big switchback. Continue on down the road a little way, and take the footpath that goes due south off this road until you get to the tower. It's only a short walk from the village, and a lovely place to just sit and look at the views all around. You get much the same grand vista as you get from the village car park, but with the advantages that you can look back up at the village behind you, and people hardly ever go down there.

The Ruined Castle at Bezu
Somewhere else you're unlikely to encounter other people. Quite a bewitching place, actually. Drive to the hamlet of Le Bezu and park by the cemetery, then take the footpath that goes south-east from this point (btw, the IGN 1:25,000 2347 OT Quillan map is well worth investing in). There's a beautiful valley on your right-hand side as you walk along there, sometimes with horses in. After about a mile you'll see a little cut up into the woods on your left, that leads through an ancient wood to what remains of the castle on top of the escarpment. Which isn't much, but there's a gap in the walls here that reveals a plunging drop down to the valley on the other side, and affords some amazing views.

Arques
A beautiful castle surrounded by meadows, which at the time of year you're going should still have flowers in (I think, I've only been in spring and autumn). An exquisite, picture perfect sort of place.

Puivert
If you were going to go to Montsegur - another great place to visit, but obviously one only has time to do so much - then the D117 road from Quillan (goes to Foix, eventually) is a really nice drive, and on the way to the Montsegur turn-off at Belasta, you go past Puivert Castle, which is probably my favourite, but that might be partly because it's the first one I ever went to in that region. It's easy to get to - no steep mountain to climb, although the rocky access road will play havoc with your suspension. It's well worth it, though, and the views from the roof of the castle tower are wonderful.

Alet-les-Bains
There's a lot one can do from this very pretty town on the Aude, like going up the mountain in the direction of the hamlet of San Salvayre, with its tiny and ancient church, or going onto the little wooded island on the river, or just ambling around the town's narrow streets, or having a drink in the hotel with its splendid riverside gardens. But the main attraction is obviously the ruined abbey, with its gently crumbling stonework that looks so exquisite when washed in the light of a sunny day.

There's loads of places, really, all round that area, but the ones above I'm personally very fond of.

Hope you have a really nice trip.

Hi guys,

Thank you so much for your replies. Richard, the places you mention sound like my kind of thing, and thanks for the heads up on the map, i'll definitely get one. Am i right in thinking that on the road to Arques was the location of the Pontils tomb? I'm also wondering about the locations of the Devils armchair, Trembling rock (the one so humourously described in Rat Scabies and the Holy Grail) and the pool where Emma Calve reportedly carved her name. Can anyone shed any light on these at all? Is the church and Villa Bethania open every day?

Sorry for the deluge of questions!

Cheers everyone.

Have a wonderful trip, Davinho!

Decent restaurants ? The place is blessed with them...Couiza has the Auberge, and if you've got lucre to spare try the Chateau des Ducs de Joyeuse . The late Jean Luc Robin had a fine restaurant in Esperaza, is it still there ? There's the Arque Rock Cafe in Arque...and if you want to go cuisine slumming there's a McDonalds in Limoux

Hi Crow and welcome, you are quite correct about the location of the Pontils Tomb ( except that it doesn't exist anymore, and please don't try and trespass onto the owners land, I have first hand experience of being chased by a VERY angry Frenchman ! ).
The Devils armchair and the Trembling Rocks are easy to find as they are signposted from the centre of Rennes-le-Bains ( or ask in the cafe by the church or the bookstore ). Same with the Fontaine des Amour, check out Ben's and Corjan's websites for more info :-
http://www.benhammott.com/fontaine_des_amours.html
http://www.rlcresearch.com/2008/03/01/r ... emblantes/
As far as I'm aware the Villa Bethania is open every day ( can someone verify this? ), you have to pay though to visit it and the museum etc.
You may see me there as I am also local at the end of July / August.
Have a great time
Regards
Nic
edited to add this link which gives the opening times :-
http://www.renneslechateau.com/anglais/voyage.htm

Oh wow, thanks very much for that, it really helps to get feedback from people in the know. I knew that the tomb was blown up long ago and that the owner of the land wasn't particularly welcoming, but in his defence, i'd probably be a bit miffed at the deluge of visitors!

I'll check out the websites you mentioned soon, and see what more i can learn; i think the problem is that there is too much information, and i'm finding it a little difficult sorting the wheat from the chaff if you know what i mean. I'm still trying to catch up with all the books on Rennes and associated theories, and i have an awful lot to get through; just wish there was a 'Rennes le Chateau book for Dummies' out there, that's probably what i need!

And i faithfully promise i won't go anywhere near McDonalds whilst in the Languedoc. Honest!

Be strong, resist, resist
I can promise you that once you have had a good meal there, the big M will be the last thing on your mind.
Regards
Nic

There is - (RLC BOOK FOR DUMMIES) - we call it "Roscoe's posts."

Just funnin ya, Roscoe. quid pro quo for the crack about people going to RLC - just remember, not being to RLC doesn't make anyone illiterate.

Anyway hope you have a good time Crow and if you do any art while you are there maybe you could show us when you get back.

Cheers
Rain

Some of the summer conferences at RLC - no more waiting until it starts to get dark in order to be able to see the slides maybe -

Conférences de l’été

Les trois associations Terre de Rhedae, APARC et ARTBS ont décidé d’unir leurs forces pour maintenir durant la saison et dans la commune un cycle de conférences. Ces réunions auront lieu le samedi à 17 heures dans la salle de la Capitelle. Le programme est en cours d’élaboration :

10 juillet, « Pierre Plantard » par Christian Doumergue

17 juillet, « l’affaire du crâne » par Germain Blanc-Delmas

31 juillet, à déterminer

7 août, « les sociétés discrètes dans le Razès à l’époque de Saunière » par Christian Doumergue et Daniel Dugès

14 août, « histoires de trésor » par Jean-Michel Thibaux (à confirmer)

Entrée gratuite, blanquette payante ))))



With thanks to oeildusphinx.com

Thank you for all the advice guys, you're a nice bunch on this forum aren't you?! I will totally keep away from the 'big M' (you're welcome to beat me mercilessly if i do) and i'll check out those listings, although i don't think i'll be able to make that one on the 31st

I will be going armed with watercolours, so i'll definitely share any artwork painted on my travels with you all.

Thanks again, much appreciated x

Very appreciated. That's what these guys of the forum need who are located all over the planet: some romantic aquarell paintings from the RLC area. Mountain tops and "cathar castles" and all that stuff. Try Sepia too. Echt fett!

Some summer evening conferences at the Hostellerie de l' Eveche in Alet, including a Henry Lincoln evening on August 20th, apparently with a showing of the BBC Chronicle films.

Also a picnic/conference to beheld at the Monastere du Carol on August 28th -

Animations de l’été 2010 à Alet-les-Bains

APARC (Association pour la Préservation de l’âme de Rennes-le-Château)

Tous les jeudis à partir de 20h à l’Hostellerie de l’Evêché à Alet-les-Bains (possibilité de dîner sur place à partir de 19 heures)

5 août, à déterminer

12 août, « Rennes-le-Château et son environnement fortéen », Jean-Luc Rivera

19 août, « Fatima et Gérard de Sède », Yves Lignon

Manifestation exceptionnelle le vendredi 20 août : « Nuit Henry Lincoln », en présence de l’auteur, avec projection des premières émissions du journaliste sur la BBC concernant l’affaire de Rennes-le-Château.

26 août, « Rennes-le-Château et l’Italie », Anna-Maria Mandelli

L’APARC organise par ailleurs une « Pic nic » conférence, pilotée par Philippe Marlin -
28 août au monastère dynamité du Carol (commune de Baulou en Ariège) : « L’œuvre du RP Louis de Coma, une affaire parallèle celle de Rennes-le-Château ». Rendez-vous à 11 heures devant le monastère. (Baulou est situé à la sortie de Foix, direction Saint-Girons).

I wonder what folk have against Mickey D', the Golden Arches, or whatever other handle it goes by. I suffered more than once in many a French town + city tryin' to get a decent meal. I ain't impressed with what French cookin' has to offer.

This is bait fish where I grew up... if ya want non-bait fish stew, ya gotta come to Scandinavia.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bouillabaisse

IMHO, every French chef needs to live + work in Bavaria to get this down right... to eat sauerkraut in France is a guaranteed disaster every time. Ya may as well pour a salt shaker out on a plate and have that as yer main course, 'cuz what ya get served will match that salt shaker.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Choucroute_garnie

If yer into stew, France ain't the best place to indulge that genre...I got disappointed every time I tried these in France, regardless of area. Over-salted every time.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pot_au_feu
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cassoulet
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ratatouille

Care for chittlin's yawl?...France has its own variety...
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Andouillette

These I like but they are not always available like a´Mickey D's...
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Raclette
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Socca

Another item that can be good if not the usually over kill saltiness...
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brandade

In the end I usually settle for roasted chicken or schni-po-sa as its called in Germany, schnitzel, pommes, salad. There is a chain of German restaurants called Wienerwald the French could definitely learn from. At least they offer what folk would make at home, and not be subjected to a chef havin' a bad hair day, which is what I suspect happens all over France.

Since Richard is an experienced hand in the RLC area when it comes to where to eat, I trust his judgement. So far I have yet to hear him mention he got a meal so salty he couldn't eat it. I never add salt, 'cuz there is so much natural salt in most food items. I really react negatively to monosodium glutamate and avoid Chinese restaurants.

I wish our newbie all the best. I hope she will give us a blow-by-blow description of what cuisine she gets subjected to. Hugo Soskin's book describing devils cheese comes to mind. Hugo was not impressed either. Ben brought his own bangers along, so that should tell most folks what yer in for.

Bon apetit, Crow

Come on Jake, I knew you had no taste, but this is pushing it
Regards
Nic

Nic, I will let ya in on a not so big secret , 'cuz i already informed Tom D. Ya see i have been afflicted with 5-star gourmet cookin' my entire life. It started with my mom, girlfriends I had when I was in High School who got a taste of my mom's cookin' and they in turn went all out just to hang in there.

Ya see, I was 1 of 7 kids, so 'tween all of us, we had a steady stream of guests we brought home. My mom's reknown for her cookin' was known all over town. When I got married, now that I think back at that time it was my 1st wife's mom's cookin' that locked me in. The kicker here bein' I got married in london to an Irish gal who definitely could could cook, but her mom was a gourmet just like my mom. I ain't no effite snob. I just know when grub ain't up to snuff.

I rarely ate in a UK restaurant, 'cuz me muvver-in -law would tease me no end 'boot it afterwards. She'd say, did ya get 1 bottle or 2 bottles of HP sauce to slather over what I got handed. How many complained the next day of New Delhi belly?

Me present missus, a German-Swede and her mom are fantastic kitchen magicians. I get paradise on a plate every day. When I was in Heidelberg we would check out the 1 + 2 star Michelin restaurants in Alsace + Lorraine. Escargot, frog legs, entrecote were the usual fair we chose. Like I said, i tried all the other stuff and was disappointed every time. I tell the waiter to tell the chef... no salt, no MSG. But, ye olde habits die hard, yes?

BTW, the best French restaurant I have been in is here in Helsingborg, run by a Frenchman married to a Swede who found out real quick Swedes don't like much salt or MSG. He uses wine, cream, butter like all French chefs do, yet he does not do Choucroute 'cuz all the normal ingredients are already salt saturated.

His Bouillebaisse is more like a Swedish fish stew, 'cuz he don't use traditional bait fish.

Ya see Nic, it ain't a snob 'thang' its a quality factor 'thang'. I ain't big on alcohol, but I know from experience Spanish, French, Belgian beer ain't up to snuff, with the exception of what Cistercians make. Dutch beer is a step up, but nobody matches the Germans for beer or white wines. Edelzwicker's, rose' weissherbst, spätlese, auslese from the Deutsche Weinstrasse, especially Deideshemer Feuerberg are in a class by themself.

For reds I prefer Cote du Rhon over Burgundy, Bourdeaux, Cabernet of any kind. I am not fond of Beaujolais. The German guest we have, her father has his own vineyards and produces really tasty wine. He makes his own brandy.

So, when it comes to taste, I can honestly say if something from a restaurant matches what my mom or missus makes, which is extremely rare. Restaurant fare has its limitations, home cookin' does not have to factor in, namely time. Its a shame ya can't sample fish dishes me missus makes, ye'll stop eatin' red meat. She bakes bread, another genre the Germans can't be matched in to accompany her meals.

The French like the Italians have baguettes, and that's it. Nic, have ya ever had kase-uberbacke lauge brotchen or lauge stangen? They are a treat, lemme tell ya, go into a French bakery and order 1, I wish ya all the luck in the world if ya can get 1. How about cold cuts, smoked meats, another genre that German surpass everybody in. Like I said, when ya go out campin' in France, yer at the mercy of what's at hand, yes?

No I don't think I've had the pleasure, however I will check them out should I come across them.

Yes, and I'm quite a fan of salami etc. I can think of many more countries that I would not like to be "at the mercy of what's at hand". IMHO the supermarkets in France have much better fresh produce than the genetically modded stuff they pass off as food in the UK. I'm a little bit of a fussy eater as well, but honestly it has never even crossed my mind to go to a McD's there, good food isn't that difficult to find ( however I have noticed the price of food rise dramatically over the last 5 years ).
Regards
Nic

That was the plummeting exchange rate, Nic.

Circa 1.60 Euros to the pound on my first visit to RLC in 2002, and about 1.05 on my last in 2008. Going down there has definitely got a lot more expensive.

I agree that French supermarkets are excellent, though, and still great value.

On the subject of local cuisine, the hotel in Alet where the lectures referred to above are taking place, serves really excellent food. Sadly the restaurant seems to be closed for the season these days, by the time I get down there, but for anyone who's going to be around in the summer - Crow, Nic, etc. - it's definitely worth considering for an evening out. I've really enjoyed eating - and staying - there, as it's a lovely old building in nice grounds between the river and the ruined abbey, the old Episcopal Palace. They do very good regional food, especially their menu terroir, which I think is about 35 euros, but you can eat there for less. Or more. They have good wines too, and the ambience is excellent, a cosy place with rough hewn stone walls, and you can walk in the gardens after dinner. Or even eat outside, and have the illuminated walls of the abbey on one side of you, and the sound of the Aude rushing past on the other.

I also concur with Pilrig above that the restaurant in the hotel in Couiza is excellent, if expensive. I had an exceptional meal there once. Definitely worthwhile if one can stretch to it.

In RLC itself I used to like the cafe in the priest's garden, but I've not been to it since it was run by the late Jean-Luc Robin, so I don't know what it's like now. A good place to hang out, though. I do like the other restaurant there, opposite the bookshop, which does an AOC goats cheese, drizzled in honey with a pine nut salad, which is absolutely delicious. And you can sit outside, on a little decking terrace, underneath the Tour Alchemie of the adjacent Hautpoul Castle.

And the markets are really good for food. Quillan has a particularly good one on (I think) Wednesdays. Others who know the area better might know which days different towns in the area have their markets. Worth knowing if planning a picnic, and always enjoyable to visit in any event.

The Spar shop in Couiza - on the crossroads opposite the Post Office - may not look like much from the outside, but has loads of stuff inside, and is a good place for general provisions.

Esperaza on a Sunday morning.

You guys are brilliant, thank you so much! I think i can now safely say i'm sorted on the food/restaurant front thanks to you lot. I think i'll try and do my shopping in the local markets, better value and a nicer experience, although i'm not too sure what the locals will think of my vaguely remembered schoolgirl french - 'Avez Vous Sandwich?'
I have to admit i've had mixed experiences when eating in france, and i guess my penchant for overcooked meat doesn't go down too well. I guess the old French saying that the English kill their food twice (once at slaughter, and once again when cooking) is well and truly reinforced whenever i order.

Hugo Furst - Nowt wrong with HP mate. You don't know what you're missing, seriously. It's heaven on a bacon sandwich, and i defy anyone to tell me different!

Ms Crow, I hope ya realize I am yankin' yer chain here a bit. Richard knows that. I think Nic does as well. Ya see, I have a bruvver who lives outside Manchester and has survived on UK cookin' ever since he got married to a gal from Higham Ferrers. She does zakly what ya described I mean when she cooks meat. it really + truly has been cooked to death. Me bruvver swears by HP sauce, not at it, hehehe

Whenever I went there we knew we'd get beans on toast, wiv fried egg on top + HP sauce. We got marmite on toast for breakfast. The methane slugs one creates and lighst warm up the kitchen in a jiffy. Yeah I agree, UK cuisine wouldn't be te same wiv out HP sauce, hehehe.

Me bruvver did 1 thing I didn't have to do. he went back to the States to visit mum while she was still alive, every year, to reinvigorate his taste bud. My employer at that time didn't give me that luxury. I had to survive on grub that needed cajun hot sauce to make it palatable, HP sauce isn't potent 'nuff to combat the blandness of Army MRE's. Just ask any bloke servin' in Afghan or Iraq today, especially those poor sods who survived on spam for 100 straight daze..

Ha Ha, your sister in law sounds like a girl after my own heart, i love meat that's had the bejesus cooked out of it! As you've probably guessed, i'm no Delia. Oh and i don't do ironing either. What a catch eh?

Ms Crow, have ya read Hugo's book and his culinary travails whilst in RLC? Most forum regulars have. Its a fun read. Ben's book and his culinary exploits are not to be missed either. Ya could say its a blokes survivors guide, from an epicurian viewpoint.

Instead of HP sauce, which I don't recall Ben mentioning, he does have a'nuvver sauce, he spells like this, vodka. Its the perfect accoutremont to any meal, yes? Its like havin' liquid plunger wiv every meal. No banger in the world will bog yer belly down.